Chocolate was oozing from the molino (“mill”) at el Mercado de Abastos, the central market in the city of Oaxaca—thick rivers of deep brown chocolate. I was there with Susana Trilling, who owns the local cooking school and bed-and-breakfast Seasons of My Heart, and a fellow student from the school. Before the chocolatemaker ground the toasted cacao beans with cinnamon, we had pinched them out of their shells on a flat surface, and he had blown lightly on them to clear away the shells; the beans were bitter, with a lingering aftertaste. The speed of the mill’s turning stones had then transformed them into a thick goo about the consistency of peanut butter. Next the miller mixed in sugar by hand and ran the whole…
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