I went; I ate; for the most part I snickered. Of all the alleged barbecue capitals in the United States, the only serious rival to Texas is Kansas City, Missouri. This is because Kansas City barbecues beef, whereas Memphis, the Carolinas, and the rest of the Deep South barbecue pork. But its reputation is also the result of the efforts of K.C. native and New Yorker writer Calvin Trillin, who for some two decades has been writing rapturously about Arthur Bryant’s without ever once describing the barbecue or what makes it so good. In other words, K.C.’s rep was suspect. I had to see for myself.So one weekend in March, I flew to Kansas City to sample its best. At the vaunted Arthur Bryant’s, the brisket turned…
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